(A pdf of these instructions is available at the bottom of this page to print out and have at the windows while installing.)

Thank you for purchasing Shoji Shades! To install them you will need:
•a pencil
•a screwdriver or small hammer
•a metal measuring tape
A carpenter’s level is useful if you are installing outside mounted shades. Your shades come wrapped with a band of paper with window number indicated. Make sure you have the correct shade for each window. Please handle the shades using this protective wrap and do not unwrap the shade until it is placed in the installed brackets. Please note that the supplied screws or nails are for installation into wooden frames only. For metal surfaces, use suitable sheet metal screws and pre-drill holes. For concrete, stone, brick, or tile use a carbide drill and appropriate anchors and screws. For wallboard or plaster, use hollow wall anchors and/or longer screws to each framing or stud. All brackets can be painted.

When pulling the shade up or down, always grab and pull shade from the middle. To lock, hold in the desired position for two seconds. If the shade is let go without “locking” into place, there will be no resistance and the shade can shoot up towards the tube possibly damaging the shade.

Several videos on YouTube are helpful to watch to get an overview on installing shades including:

Please note that the brackets are not the same and are not interchangeable:
•Reverse Roll (shade rolls in front of the roll): Slotted bracket is on the right, post hole bracket on left. Unless specified, all inside mount Shoji Shades are a reverse roll.

•Standard Roll (shade rolls behind the roll): Slotted bracket on the left and post hole bracket on the right. Unless specified, all outside mount Shoji Shades are a standard roll as a standard roll allows the paper to be as close to the window as possible.

The roller shade, when mounted should not make contact with the top of the window frame or any other obstruction when raised and lowered. The brackets need to be aligned and level with one another. When the shade is installed, it should move freely between the brackets.


• Make sure there is a ½’’ clearance between the top of the window frame and the top of the fully rolled shade. The shade should not make contact with the top of the window frame or any other obstruction when raised or lowered.

•Always allow a small amount of play between the brackets and the roller shade to ensure proper roller function. The shade should move freely between the brackets. Shades mounted too tightly in the brackets will not function properly.

•It is important that the shade be aligned and level to work properly and that the brackets are level with each other. To do this, measure down from the top of the window casing and in from the frame and make a small pencil mark where the top screw will be placed. Measure and make the same mark on the other side. Double check that both measurements are the same. Pre-drill holes if using screws or use a small hammer to tap the small nails into the brackets.

•Insert the end of the shade with the pin into post hole bracket (left side for reverse roll) and then roll the flat spring end into the slotted bracket and secure. Only remove protective paper after shade is securely in brackets. Insert wooden slat in pocket at bottom of shade.

•It is important that the shade be aligned and level to work properly and that the brackets are level with each other. The shade needs to be centered over the window. Make sure there is 1/8” play between the roller and the brackets. Shades mounted too tightly will not function properly.

•Position the mounting bracket with the round hole on the right upper corner (for a standard roll). Hold the shade to the desired position (making sure it is level) and place pencil marks through nail/screw holes in bracket.

•After attaching the first bracket, position shade in bracket and making sure the shade is level, mark holes for the second (left) bracket and then attach it

•Insert the end with the pin into the right side bracket with the hole. Then roll the flat spring end into the slotted bracket on the left side bracket. Only remove protective paper once shade is securely in brackets. Insert wooden slat in pocket at bottom of shade.


Spring roller shades are designed with wooden core that the shade material wraps around. Inside one end of the shade is a spring that can be adjusted for proper tension to raise and lower the window shades. As you pull the roller shade down a ratchet in the tube catches on a pawl (also called a dog!) and holds the spring, keeping the shades at the position you lower them. The opposite end of the shade just has a pin that rotates in the mounting bracket. Caution: Over-winding can cause permanent damage to the spring and should not be wound too tightly. When the shade will not roll up, the spring is too loose. When the shade won’t stay down, the spring is too tight.

1. Shades will not raise (spring fully uncoiled):
•Remove window shade from the brackets.
•Using your hand, carefully turn the flat pin
(the one with the spring) until you feel tension. You will
feel the mechanism catch. Do this a few times but do not
let the pin go until you feel it catch or the spring will
totally unwind. Do not over-wind or this will damage
the spring.
•Re-install shade in the mounting brackets.
•Follow instructions in step 2 to tighten spring tension.

2. Shades roll up too slowly (to tighten spring tension and increase lifting power):
•Lower shade to 18 “ and carefully remove
shade from brackets.
Make sure to have cleans hands.
•Roll shade up all the way by hand taking care to not
wrinkle the paper and keeping it aligned on the roller.
•Replace shade in brackets and test and repeat if
necessary until shade responds with the proper tension.

3. Shades roll up too fast (to loosen spring tension)
•Raise shade all the way up and remove from brackets.
•Roll shade down about 18” by hand, taking care to not damage
the paper.
•Replace shade in brackets and test and repeat if necessary.

4. Shades won’t lock into position (stuck pawl)
•Raise up roller shade and remove from brackets.
•Remove any dirt or dust from the pawl (the small arm that
engages the ratchet teeth) using compressed air or a toothpick.
•Lubricate the pawl with graphite or WD-40 taking care to not get
any on the paper.
•Replace shade.

Sometimes in mailing the shades will get knocked around and they will arrive with no tension. To increase tension, follow steps on instruction number 2.

Trouble shooting

Telescoping: Some times a shade will not roll true. First, make sure the brackets are level. If this is not the problem, pull the shade down until the roller is exposed. Stick a 5” piece of masking tape at the top of the shade paper on to the opposite side from where it is going crooked. Place it as close the edge as possible. If the shade is rolling to the left, put the tape to the right. If it is rolling to the right, put the tape to the left. Roll up shade. If it still is going crooked to the same side, roll down again and add another strip of tape on top of the first. After making the correction, remember that your hand it the best guide to rolling a shade straight. Watch the end of the roller as you roll up the shade to see if it is going even.

•Warps or light wrinkles in the paper: These can be removed by lowering the shade all the way and leaving it in this position for a week or so. The warmth of the sun will help smooth the paper.

•Pin adjustment: If shade is too narrow to fit between the mounting brackets, a slight adjustment can be made on the pin side. Use pliers to pull the pin out from the end by turning the pin while pulling out. This adjustment can make the shade up to ¼” longer.

Download: installingshojishades2.pdf
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